Dog Food Storage

Posted by KennyBoy under Thoughts

Breeze was known as the big fat white one when she was a puppy. She has grown up to be slightly overweight, but since my last two doctors have looked me up on a graph and told me I am obese; so who am I to point the finger?

As she grew up, she would still pinch off the older dog; I have known her take the hide chew out of his mouth and keep hers under her paws until she has finished his. If you left a digestive on the coffee table Shale would take it; no real problem in his mind; if we were in the room he wouldn’t take it but he would give it a damn good sniffing, looking at us all the time and enough dribble to put you off eating it.

Breeze though always looked guilty even catching sight of the biscuit in the first place. She would slink because she wanted it. 

Yesterday I fed them in the kitchen and came through to the living room. A minute or two later Shale came and joined us, but for a change he looked guilty. I knew he couldn’t have done much in the time; Breeze was scratching around in the kitchen - getting her bed comfortable I thought. Two minutes later she was still scratching so I went to see what she was up to.

Breeze had her head buried in the box of food; I had never seen even her so bloated looking. I had an anxious ten seconds worrying about her stomach bursting. Then I remembered how easily she can be sick so I stopped worrying. But she hardly got fed today.

Take care, and shut the cupboard doors after feeding the dogs!

Ken

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Whippy Sticks

Posted by Ken Devonald under Q&As or FAQs

Was speaking to Jeanie earlier (via email) and she reminded mind about the use of whippy sticks…

The puppies are growing like mushrooms, and I am pleased how the bitch is progressing.

 

I started in early February and have got them lead trained.  Re the pulling GSPs, I was given the tip of using a whippy stick, bamboo cane or something light, and walking with the puppy on your left along a fence or wall, just the dogs width away from the fence, moving the stick rapidly to and fro just in front of where you want the puppy’s nose to be.  It soon learns that its nose gets tapped if it goes too far forward.  For this to work for the next stage of walking to heel off the lead, I think it helps if the lead is slack.

 

The bitch is sitting well, and I can leave her sitting and walk a few paces from her, go past her, come back and walk round her, but at this stage it is on a very quiet road, so partly enclosed - i.e. hedges each side.  The dog is not at this stage yet.

 

They both enjoy the odd retrieve, maybe twice a week, in a narrow passageway, so have to come back to me, when they get a big fuss.  I am not worried about the presentation just yet.  With the bitch, I have thrown the dummy into some rushes, a couple of times, and she has had to hunt for it, and found it.

 

Are dogs slower than bitches in your experience?

 

Thanks for your help

 

Jeanie

 

PS  I am reading some of your articles, and the one on chewing.  I only heard the following tip a couple of years ago, and we have had all sorts of things chewed since I bred my first Border Terriers in 1972.  Find, beg, borrow or steel a deer antler.  I was given a fallow one, and our two year old Border (related to my original bitch) had it, and is now on a second, which she shares with her mother, and we have not had anything chewed for the first time.

 

My first reaction was that Jeanie is taking it steadier than a lot of us would - very worthwhile approach, never rush your dogs!

Then I thought, the deer antler is an excellent idea! I have a couple I bought to make Terri buttons, and it is tempting to try it out.

Anyway, what I wrote back: -

Bitches are a bit brighter than dogs (in my experience that is). Rather than learn to jump my bitch would stop and watch me for a bit as I walked away, then run two hundred yards back the way she had come and get to me that way. This despite hunting and pointing a couple of rabbits in between! Dogs get there in the end and sometimes take a long time about it!

 

Whippy sticks are a good idea, and they have the advantage that you can underline other things. I used to swish them as I told the dogs off when introducing them to sheep - we would walk along the moorland road near us, and as you disturbed a sheep you would growl, swish the stick and tell the dog NO! The result is a dog that will pay no attention whatsoever to a sheep. Mine have jumped over a fence and found themselves amongst 20 sheep and totally ignored them. That was carelessness on my part, not checking the field and sending the dogs out.

 

The only trouble with a whippy stick is people thinking it is cruel to whack dogs. They will not realise it is only used as a guide and are liable to think you are waiting for an opportunity to beat them. The general public have a tendency to do this. My old GSP can be slow to sit - they don’t like doing it and will often only lower their backsides half way. I was doing some training with Shale in an alley when visiting my mother in law, and I had to repeat the Sit! command, and I got such a telling off because he looked as though he was about to poo and I had a woman screaming “How dare you tell your dog to s%&t outside of my house”!

 

Sounds like you are doing well with the sitting, it would still be early days if you had GSPs, but spaniels tend to be a bit ahead! With the presentation I always make an exception to the no feeding rule - do this with a recall rather than a retrieve;

 

Call your dog in with your arms open wide As she comes in bring your arms together in front of you and point to the toes of your shoes.

Have a small piece of a smelly treat in your fingers When the pup is sat with her head up sniffing let her have the treat

 

The small size of the treat is important - we all want more of what we only get a little of - and don’t do it every time, every other time is good at first, then less as she progresses.

 

Bringing your hands together and pointing I feel guides the dog. When you are doing retrieves, guide them in the same way, and you should end up with a dog that presents nicely. Feel free to give a treat after you have taken the retrieve, but make it separate from the retrieve. In other words, take the game and don’t get them dribbling over it with anticipation, thank them then give a treat.

 

Would you mind if I stick the essence of this on the website? It saves me thinking up an article and I am snowed under at the moment with some other websites I am doing.

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GSP Pictures…

Posted by kenny under Thoughts

Just found some old pictures of GSPs that I would like to share…

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Two email exchanges on problems with teaching GSPs and other Gundogs heelwork

Posted by kenny under Q&As or FAQs

The following discussions were email conversations that I have basically cut and pasted - covering problems that people encounter with heelwork, where their dog insists on pulling. A little side discussion on socialising puppies is included.

Sarah said…I own a 5 month old GSP and have been training her using the usual obedience commands, which have gone really well. The only issue we have is with heelwork. She understands the command heel means to come back to my left side, and we have been rewarding this with a food reward, however as soon as she has had her reward she will dart off forwards again pulling on the lead. We can get her back to our side again but it seems to have become a backward and forward game if darting forwards then coming back with the heel command.

This issue arose despite us rewarding her when she was walking nicely to heel without the command being issued. Have you any suggestions for us?
So I said… To an extent I think that is one of the things with GSPs - they want to be in front! My old dog Shale has always had a tendency to creep forward whilst at heel, and the most effective thing is to stop and not go forward until he returns to heel. This gets really frustrating for you though! As an aside, they are also used in that position for woodland deer stalking, walking a half pace in front of the stalker so they can scent deer and the handler can see them indicate.

Okay, I have just looked up what Joe Irving says - he is one of the better guys to read for spaniels and I picked up his ‘professional dog training’ a couple of years ago, and it is about time I opened it. His view is that it is likely to develop into a war of attrition and the earlier you start the better. This fits in with our experience where the dog was allowed to run free with siblings as a pup and was always edging forward and Breeze who was put on a lead as soon as we picked her up. Joe does not recommend a collar when doing heelwork, but using a slip lead and zero tolerance; and impose your will, don’t work up to it.

Speaking to Terri (my better half) who is a natural dog trainer “you just have to expect them to do what you want and they do” - she suggests cutting down on the treats. Once she said it I could see it makes sense, you are rewarding the pup when she comes to you, and until she leaves you she can’t come back for more. She suggests turning as you walk, (i.e. about turns and right angles) to keep the dog guessing and I do remember turning into the dog until he was cautious about going forward. Never in an aggressive sense, just keep them guessing.

Graham Gibson has just produced a DVD and he advocates the use of a check chain - these are designed to rattle and give an audible command; often misnamed a choke chain, they work like a slip lead. Graham is a great chap, and I am keen to see his next gundog training DVD, but his training on this first DVD is aimed at pet dogs so I was disappointed with the breadth of content. He does cover heelwork on the DVD though at some length, with determined pullers, including a Weimaraner. If you search for Lamington Kennels he was advertising them on there.

Since you have the problem, and it is slightly embedded, I would suggest ringing the changes. Train somewhere different (away from distractions), don’t treat the dog, insist on her walking where you want with a sharp pull on the lead (never give them a gentle pull), and make a fuss of her as she walks to heel. Terri suggests doing it along the hallway or around the garden with (controlled) enthusiasm in your voice to keep the dog’s attention. Keep the heel walks short for a couple of weeks, do them frequently. It does all come down to the same old rules; reinforce the good behaviour and don’t reinforce the bad.

We have always attended obedience classes with the pups and got the good citizen’s awards as well. This helps with heelwork and socialisation as well.

Sorry if this seems a bit waffly, but to be honest it is probably the third hardest fault to fix (whining and hard mouth are worse).

Thanks for the feedback; it is good to know the work is appreciated.

Good luck and keep us posted!

Then She Said…Thank you so much for your detailed response, I really appreciate all of your comments.

She is walking well to heel in the garden and the house, so it’s the next phase on that I’m struggling with, which I suppose has a lot of distractions for it’s a busy main road. I had pretty good success walking her through the pedestrianised high street during her socialisation a couple of months ago, so might actually try that again a little bit later on, as she seemed to stick to my side more so then.

We have worked hard with socialisation but I have noticed more recently that she is occasionally barking at some strangers (and also in excitement when visitors arrive) so perhaps is a little on edge sometimes during our walks. She is a real people loving dog though so it’s a little strange that any nervousness should suddenly start happening. It seems to coincide with a lot of barking with the doorbell ringing and seeing people outside the window also. More socialisation might help this I suppose.

That’s a great idea to incorporate turns into the walk to keep them guessing! Since reading your email yesterday I have been trying that in the garden and it works a treat so far. So will try and incorporate this into walks elsewhere too.

We are currently about to complete the Good Citizen Award Puppy Class, and at this stage they seem happy with our pup being able to just do a few steps to heel with a treat in front of their nose to lure them. She can do this perfectly in the hall, but obviously it’s a whole different ball game outside in the real world. So I shall try the suggestions you offer and see how we get on :)

Thanks for your recommendations of specific authors, I shall try and hunt out that DVD.

Yes its a fantastic manual you have produced, even for someone who isn’t intending to work their dog, it really helps to understand what our dogs are capable of and provides me with some ideas of tasks we could do together to help with mental stimulation. Thankfully we have been practicing the waiting before ‘retrieving’ a toy so she is good with that, and the waiting to go through doors. I found that since doing such activities it has helped her obedience in other areas too, I suppose it helps reinforce the bond and trust as ‘top dog’ in command.
So I said…Thanks for the feedback!

The one thing I forgot to say as a final thought, was you could just chill and let her creep ahead as long as she doesn’t pull - but since you are doing good citizen’s it isn’t such an option!

The real trick with a lot of problems is to manufacture situations - e.g. for the nervous reaction with visitors get someone to ring the doorbell; spend time calming the dog down; open the door and let the visitor praise her up / give a small treat once she is calm. The idea being, the sooner the dog does what is wanted the sooner she gets what she wants - and she looks forward to meeting people.

If you have no objections I will include snippets from your question in the next newsletter - I had another query tonight.
Then she said… We took her out for a walk through the town centre yesterday afternoon and she was great, initially pulled like a train but after a series of sharps turns to go the opposite direction from which she pulled, she got the message and was so much better. Also, she was less vocal with strangers too, allowing them to pass and being able to remain focused on me. We don’t pass that many people whilst on our usual walks so I think that a bit of re-socialisation with strangers was the key.

Yes I try to go with the idea of the sooner she is calm the sooner she gets her reward, although it usually harder to train the visitors that rule more than the dog lol! :)

Again, thanks ever so much, in talking through the heel work issue with you, we have managed to find a direction to work towards and also helped with another area of difficulty too! Fantastic! Thank you!

Then Mark said… I have a six month old gsp dog and although following all the books on training to walk to heel, I am getting nowhere fast.
He is pulling very hard and although I am stopping, turning him, saying HEEL in stern voice, with treats, and spending hours a week doing this, we don’t seem to be progressing at all.
I realize he is young, but do you have any tips.
and I said… …what I said to Sarah and… So… what would I try in your case?

I wouldn’t feed him during training. Just the smallest of tidbits occasionally! You aren’t his mother, you’re his boss, and you choose to feed him, not let him think he gets it regardless! I suspect that he has always pulled but it wasn’t such a problem as a pup because you could handle it, but they get to be heavy dogs so you need to underline it is not allowed. If you ever watch Jo the kid trainer on the telly you can use the same principle as the naughty step. Take the dog somewhere new (to break the habit it pays to change the place) and as soon as he pulls stand still for thirty seconds or so. Once he has relaxed, start again and repeat as necessary. What you are looking for is making the link between “I pull, I get bored”!

It is a boring lesson for both of you, but when he really gets fit you have to have him knowing who is boss. Where do you live? If you are in the North you would be welcome to come along for an hour or two and we’ll see what we can do. We are living in Prestonpans, just east of Edinburgh and a new handler can break a bad habit much more quickly than the usual one.

Then He Said Thanks for help, will keep going.

He is pretty well behaved on a one to one or with the family as far as jumping concerned, but when the door goes and anyone visits although they ignore him, he will try to jump, I guess it’s just a case of keep going. I think I will try a check chain and see how we go with the pulling, I will try to be a bit sterner, (must be a real sight, 6 foot .5 guy with a black pointer pulling him down the lane, backwards and forwards in the rain, I keep passing the same people out on runs or walks and then an hour later they pass me again, only I’ve only moved three feet!!! GSP seemed a good idea at the time! Maybe a Chihuahua would’ve been better; at least I could’ve carried that!

Hopefully next time I email, will be with some better news on training front. I think some obedience classes are beckoning.

And I said…Ring the changes Mark, speak to the dog quietly and he will pay you more attention, and may well be calmer as well. I truly could make my dogs sit at 200-300 yards by hissing at them (the old dog is deaf now though). I wonder if the dog thinks you are barking and is getting wound up? I made a similar mistake with my first GSP, trying to get him across a river and trying to gee him up. The guy leading the class got me to talk quietly and it did make the whole experience a lot more enjoyable.

You will get there!

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Coming this weekend

Posted by kenny under What's on?

Hi All, hope the training is going well for most of you. Not all, I rely on questions to keep the interest up!

I have received two emails in three days, both relating to GSPs and heel work. Having spent more time mulling over the answers (or rather suggestions - there are no answers until they work) than I do on most articles, I thought I would tidy them up and use them in the next newsletter, which I hope to send this weekend. It would have been sooner, but I got involved in selling old magazines on ebay and made some money and it proved a bit distracting.

So for those of you who have downloaded the ebook, keep an eye open for the newsletter which should arrive before next week. For those of you who have not downloaded the ebook, I will publish the article to this site in a couple of weeks time.

The book I am going to review is one of my favourites, Training Spaniels by Joe Irving. It gave me much sound advice when I had my first Springer, truly a bitch in both senses of the word. I have never been fitter than when teaching that dog the recall. The slightest temptation and she was off - swallows over grassland were her favourite, and I think she was under the impression that she had ears like dumbo, flap them enough and she could catch the blighters.

In the previous issue I also promised to talk about finding a litter and choosing a puppy. I may have to drop those in favour of the heel-with-gsp problem which experience tells me also applies to spaniels, labs, jack russell terriers…

Happy training!

Ken

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2 Comments